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Do I Need a Separate Dehumidifier if I Have an Air Conditioner?

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High humidity is an everyday thing here in the south. The phrase “dry heat” is about as foreign a concept as snow in winter. However, most people still don’t take steps to address the high humidity problems in their own homes. One of the most damaging myths regarding humidity is that if you have an air conditioner, you don’t need to use a dedicated dehumidifier. Let’s take a look at why that isn’t true.

High Humidity

First, why do you need to worry about high humidity in the first place? There are two primary reasons. The higher the humidity levels in the air are, the higher the evaporation point for most liquids. That includes sweat. So, the higher the humidity levels are, the longer it will take your body to cool itself. Comfort isn’t the only concern, however.

High humidity also promotes mold growth in the darker areas of your home, like inside the walls and under the sink. Mold spores can cause a wide range of nasty health problems, some of which can even be life-threatening in certain circumstances. This is one of the biggest reasons why you need to control your indoor humidity.

Why Air Conditioners Aren’t Good Enough

Air conditioners do have some dehumidifying function, though it’s entirely accidental. The system cools the air past the dew point, which causes it to shed some of its extra humidity. However, because the air conditioner is not designed to do that, it will never be as effective as a dedicated dehumidifier. If you want to avoid the issues associated with high humidity, you should absolutely install a dedicated dehumidifier in your home.

At Harbin Air our professionals can help you with the humidity in your home. We carry the

TrueDRY™ DR65 Dehumidification System

Remove 65 pints of moisture per day with this whole-house dehumidifier

Moisture leads to humidity, which leads to being uncomfortable in your own home. Our TrueDRY™ DR65 Dehumidification System can help. It’s a whole-house dehumidifier that can remove up to 65 pints of moisture per day from the air and replaces it with fresh, filtered air. You can dehumidify the whole house or a certain area. Everything about the dehumidifier makes it homeowner-friendly. Unlike portable units, it’s not out in the open. It’s also super quiet and efficient. Maintenance? Minimal. The dehumidifier drains automatically.

  • Removes up to 65 pints of moisture per day

  • Minimal maintenance

  • Increased comfort and energy savings

  • Remove excess moisture from the air, delivering fresh, filtered air in the home

  • Less moisture in the home reduces the strain on your air conditioner and also allows you to set your thermostat higher to run your air conditioner less

  • Can remove moisture evenly throughout the entire home or focus specifically on problem areas that can lead to costly renovations

  • Unlike portable units, Honeywell whole-house dehumidifiers provide unobtrusive, quiet and efficient operation

  • Professional installation

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Tips on How to Protect Your HVAC System from Summer Storms

source credit: Deposit Photos

source credit: Deposit Photos

Thunderstorms become more frequent during the summer season. In addition to exterior components such as the roof and windows, your HVAC system also needs to be ready in the event a storm hits your area. Here are some tips on how to properly prepare your HVAC system for summer storms.

Turn Off the Power to Your HVAC System at the Circuit Breaker

As soon as the weather shifts and you know for sure a storm is coming, turn off the power to your air conditioner or heat pump from the circuit breaker box. This may make your home slightly uncomfortable, but it’s necessary to save your HVAC unit from a power surge. It also reduces the risk of damage in case of a lightning strike. If you have a window-mounted air conditioner, unplug it from the wall.

Cover Your Outdoor Unit

The outdoor unit of your air conditioner or heat pump houses the compressor, which can be vulnerable to damage from wind, rainwater and debris, all of which can result in costly AC repairs. Clear the area around the outdoor unit and cover it with a tarp or similar durable cover. You can secure the tarp by tying it to something stable nearby. Do not use the HVAC unit while it’s still covered, as the heat won’t get vented properly and may cause damage.

Test Your Backup Generator

If you have a backup generator, test it according to manufacturer instructions using a small amount of fuel. Troubleshoot problems while the weather is clear so you can be sure to have a generator you can count on in case the power goes out. Never leave fuel in the tank when you’re not using it; keep it running until it consumes all the fuel. Consult its care and maintenance guide if you encounter any problems.

Call Your HVAC Technician If You Suspect Damage

If you think your air conditioner or heat pump has been damaged by the most recent storm, don’t attempt to conduct repairs. Instead, contact your HVAC technician and schedule a full inspection and possible repairs. If your system is covered by your insurance provider, make sure you and your HVAC technician document the full extent of the damages. This will be required by your insurance adjuster in filing your claim.

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When are Mini-Split Systems the Right Choice?

source credit: Deposit Photos

source credit: Deposit Photos

Mini-Split systems use heat pump technology. Basically, heat pumps combine an evaporator and a condenser, using puron refrigerant and phase change to provide heating and cooling. They are essentially a high efficiency air conditioner that can also run in reverse to heat the home. The condenser is usually located outdoors. It distributes refrigerant through copper tubing, which is connected to one or more indoor outlets (evaporator + air handler).
Mini-splits are particularly efficient when compared to other HVAC systems, because they “recycle” energy, to some extent. Also, they use electricity instead of burning gas, which can be advantageous.
That being said, mini-split systems wont work for every home out there. They perform well assuming that the heating/cooling load (AKA heating/cooling needs or rate of heat loss/gain) is not too high. In other words, they should be used in conjunction with good sealing and insulation, and they are ideal for smaller homes and apartments, or homes where only certain rooms need heating/cooling.

This also works the other way around. When a particular room or smaller home is very tight and insulated, any MSHP (mini-split heat pump) you install in that room will likely be much more than that room actually needs. They only make them in so many incremental sizes. With a well designed forced air system you can direct just the right amounts of energy at a room. With a mini split system you just need to choose the one that fits the best. This being said, they are starting to come out with well made self-modulating mini splits that can adjust according to the needs of the room. Although any modulating unit (gas furnace or heat pump etc) does not work well with a ducted system, they can with a wall or ceiling mounted ductless mini split unit.

Pros
1.
 Highly efficiency in the right application.
2. No gas required.
3. No ducts required! Mini-split systems distribute heat by blowing it into a room straight from the miniature heat pump coils located on any rooms’ upper wall or ceiling. No ducts mean less loss, no duct leakage, no future maintenance associated with duct work, and less variables for the average HVAC contractor to get wrong.
4. Despite the above #3, mini-splits can use a forced air system instead, using a central air handler and a duct system. If designed right, they can be used to efficiently heat/cool very low load homes.
5. Ease of Install: Mini-split systems are much easier to install than a well designed and installed forced air HVAC system. Since they are not limited by the existing duct system (which is often poorly engineered and provides uneven heating/cooling), they can be directed to the rooms/zones that really need it.
6. If your whole home is heated by electric heat pumps, you can call PG&E and have them switch you over to a cheaper rate plan associated with electric home heating. This offers more breathing room at your baseline usage level before it switches you over to a higher tier rate. This also works for a ducted heat pump system.
7. Any form of efficient electric heat further justifies the install of a solar PV system on your roof. You don’t need to pay PG&E anything other than the minimal average costs associated with gas cooking, gas dryer or a stove/oven.

Cons
1.
 A single MSHP generally wont be able to handle a large, poorly sealed/insulated home in a hot/cold climate. Bear in mind, even though a powerful HVAC system can handle this situation, it’s going to use a ton of energy. Regardless of the heating/cooling technology, you simply cannot design a system well enough to compensate for a lack of insulation and sealing. Both a heating/cooling system design and improvements to the retention of the home need to be done in conjunction with each other.
2. Electricity is a bit more expensive than gas, which can slightly offset the efficiency gain on your utility bill.
3. Although mini-splits are often advertised as being able to split 8 times, there is a huge efficiency loss when you run that many refrigerant lines, over that much distance.  1-3 splits is a more realistic, efficient and manageable option.
4. Cannot be fine-tuned as well as expertly engineered duct systems. However, well designed forced air duct systems are very rare, and it’s much easier to install a MSHP than to completely overhaul your ducts.
5. Any home larger than around 1000 square feet will benefit more from having a well designed forced air system. There are just too many rooms that are too spread apart to justify numerous mini splits indoor cassettes. Always be on the lookout for that one garage renovation or upstairs room that is hard to run a duct to. These situations are where mini splits shine the most.

Case Studies: Due to the blooming success of heat pump systems, several recent case studies have been performed. They have shown varied but overall success using MSHPs, even in larger houses in relatively hot/cold climates. In one example, two MSHPs were installed in a two-story house, one for each floor. During winter, the 1st floor MSHP was doing the majority of the work, due to thermal buoyancy (heat rising), and during summer, the 2nd floor MSHP did most of the cooling. In both cases, the MSHPs performed well, and never reached maximum load, although they were in almost constant use during summer and winter.
One nice thing they discovered is that oversized MSHPs are usually not a problem, assuming they modulate their own capacity properly, and their target zones are large enough to provide the correct return for the temperature sensors. In fact, it turns out that oversizing can actually be beneficial, since they reach optimal efficiency when running at low capacity. This is not the case for traditional HVAC systems, which, when oversized, are inefficient and uncomfortable.
So, this is an example of how mini-splits can be used cleverly and efficiently. However, it should be stated that purchasing two MSHPs for a home isn’t cheap. Also, efficiency is highly dependent on proper installation and programming, and other aspects of the home’s performance. Occupant operation also has a significant impact.

Conclusion: Mini-split systems are great when you want to heat/cool a few select rooms, or a small, well insulated home, and you don’t want to have duct work done. They are especially great if you don’t have the space to install ducts in the building or in a room, or if you want to condition a room or two that can’t fit properly sized ducts. In these situations, they are relatively convenient to install, and highly efficient.
That being said, we always recommend air sealing and insulation as a first priority for any home, regardless of the type of heating/cooling system. Optimal efficiency will not be achieved without taking these steps first. For example, if you’re going to install a new furnace/AC, it should be done at the same time as other upgrades, to ensure proper sizing and distribution.

If you have any questions, contact us and we can help you decide if the Mini-Split system is right for your home.

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6 Ways to Cut Your Energy Bill This Summer

source credit: Deposit Photos

source credit: Deposit Photos

Energy bills can skyrocket during the summer. On average, it costs around $280 per year to run air-conditioning at home. Divided over the hottest months of the year—June, July, and August—that's about $93.33 per month just for air-conditioning. Don't let your increased energy bill keep you from taking that much-needed summer vacation. Here are some easy ways to cut your electric bill this summer so you can stay cool and still have money left over.

1. Clean the filter in the air conditioner

When the filter is clogged, it has an effect on how efficiently your air conditioner runs, not to mention on the quality of air you're breathing. It's not just a beginning-of-the-summer task. Keeping the filter clean on a regular basis is important. A little vacuuming and sanitizing can go a long way.

2. Install window film

If you're not someone who wants to shut the blinds and close the curtains during the summer, installing insulating window films can allow you to enjoy the beautiful sunshine and view while still conserving energy. The films lessen heat gain, which, in turn, will help make your home feel cooler so you won't have to run the air conditioner as much. No need to call in a professional. Plenty of stores sell kits so you can easily do it yourself.

3. Install a programmable thermostat

You can set the air conditioner for one temperature when you're home and another for when you're out of the house. This can save you quite a bit of money, not to mention you won't have to fuss with it by manually changing it all the time.

4. Use a draft blocker

Depending on the type of exterior doors you have, not using a draft blocker could be the equivalent of leaving your air conditioner running while your windows are open a crack. It's basically like tossing dollar bills out your window. Draft blockers aren't expensive at all, and you can even save yourself money and make them yourself.

5. Run a fan

Fans, ceiling or otherwise, are cheaper to run than an air conditioner. If you're going to be sitting in one room, such as in the living room watching TV, consider turning off the AC and running the fan instead. You'll still be able to stay cool, just for a lower price.

6. Open a window

Opening a window at night will give your AC a breather and you can take advantage of the cooler air. If it's still too warm for you, think about installing a window-mounted fan. It allows you to either bring the night air in or push hot air out, depending on your preference. The fans are easy to take in and out as needed.

Some of the above might seem like a lot of work, but you'll be happy you made the extra effort once your energy bill comes and it's lower than you thought possible.

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